Aftelier Licorice and Jasmine: Detailed Natural Perfume Review
Among artisanal fragrances, Licorice and Jasmine by Aftelier is one of those rare scent ideas that sounds unusual—but works beautifully when executed by a master perfumer like Mandy Aftel.
This composition explores a fascinating contrast: the dark, spicy sweetness of licorice (anise) paired with the rich, narcotic floral depth of jasmine.
Fragrance Overview
Brand: Aftelier
Perfumer: Mandy Aftel
Fragrance Family: Floral / Spicy / Gourmand-Natural
Gender: Unisex
Style: Natural extrait or oil-based composition
Like most Aftelier creations, this fragrance is built using natural materials, giving it a more organic, evolving feel compared to synthetic-heavy perfumes.
Scent Profile: Sweet Spice Meets Indolic Floral
Key Notes
Licorice (Anise)
Jasmine Absolute
Supporting botanicals (likely resins, citrus, or soft musks depending on format)
This fragrance is less about a traditional pyramid and more about note interplay—a hallmark of natural perfumery.
How It Smells (Real Experience)
Licorice and Jasmine can be described as:
A sweet, herbal-spicy opening from licorice
Blended with rich, creamy jasmine
Slightly warm, soft, and skin-like in the dry-down
It feels like:
Jasmine tea with a hint of anise
Sweet herbal air at dusk
A balance of brightness and darkness
The Licorice Note: What to Expect
Licorice in perfumery usually comes from anise or fennel-like accords, giving:
Sweet, slightly bitter edge
Aromatic, almost medicinal freshness
Warm, spicy depth
From fragrance discussions, licorice often adds a distinct, slightly smoky or herbal sweetness rather than candy-like sugar.
The Jasmine Note: Natural & Complex
Aftelier is known for using high-quality jasmine absolute, which tends to be:
Rich and slightly animalic
Sweet but also green and indolic
Deeply sensual
For example, Aftelier jasmine compositions often include citrus accents to balance intensity, creating a radiant yet narcotic floral effect.
Scent Evolution
Opening
Herbal, slightly sweet licorice
Aromatic and unusual
Heart
Jasmine becomes dominant
Creamy, floral, slightly indolic
Dry-down
Soft blend of spice + floral warmth
Skin-like, intimate finish
The transition feels smooth and natural, not sharply structured.
Performance
Longevity: Moderate (4–7 hours typical for natural extrait)
Projection: Soft
Sillage: Intimate
Like most Aftelier perfumes, it stays close to the skin but evolves beautifully over time.
What Makes It Unique?
1. Rare Note Combination
Licorice + jasmine is extremely uncommon in perfumery.
2. Natural Composition
Feels organic and alive
Slight variations depending on skin chemistry
3. Contrast-Based Design
Licorice = dark, spicy, unusual
Jasmine = bright, floral, sensual
This creates a push-pull effect that keeps the scent interesting.
Strengths
Unique and artistic scent profile
High-quality natural ingredients
Beautiful balance of sweet and floral
Intimate and personal
Weaknesses
Not beginner-friendly
Licorice note may feel unusual or polarizing
Soft projection
Hard to find compared to mainstream perfumes
Who Should Buy This?
Choose this fragrance if you:
Love experimental niche perfumes
Enjoy jasmine with a twist
Appreciate natural perfumery
Want something different from typical florals
Avoid it if you prefer simple, sweet, or mainstream scents.
Final Verdict
Aftelier Licorice and Jasmine is a fragrance for true perfume lovers—those who enjoy contrast, artistry, and natural depth. It transforms jasmine into something more mysterious by pairing it with licorice’s dark sweetness.
It’s not a crowd-pleaser—but it doesn’t try to be.
Instead, it offers a quiet, intriguing, and deeply personal scent experience.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. What does Licorice and Jasmine smell like?
It smells like sweet herbal licorice blended with rich jasmine, creating a floral-spicy scent.
2. Is it a sweet perfume?
Slightly, but more herbal and aromatic than sugary.
3. Is it beginner-friendly?
No, it’s better suited for niche fragrance enthusiasts.
4. Is it unisex?
Yes, completely unisex.
5. Is it long-lasting?
Moderate longevity, typical of natural perfumes.